# Crankshaft position sensor replacement cost

- **Typical cost:** $150-$500
- **Parts:** $30-$180
- **Labor:** 0.5-2.5 hours
- **Dealer:** $250-$750

## Quick answer

Replacing a crankshaft position sensor usually costs $150 to $500 at an independent shop. The sensor itself is inexpensive; labor depends on where it is mounted. Sensors on the front of the engine are at the low end. Sensors behind the starter, near the transmission or under other parts, plus any relearn, push the price higher.

## What is crankshaft position sensor and why does it need replacing?

The crankshaft position sensor tells the engine computer how fast the crankshaft is turning and exactly where each piston is. It reads teeth on a reluctor wheel on the crankshaft or flywheel, usually with a magnetic or Hall-effect sensor. The computer uses that signal to time the spark and the fuel injectors, and on most engines it also uses small changes in crank speed to detect misfires. Without a crank signal, most engines will crank but not start.

Crank sensors fail mostly from heat and age. The sensor sits close to the hot engine block, and its internal windings or electronics can crack, often failing first when hot and working again after the engine cools. Oil leaks soaking the connector, chafed wiring and metal debris stuck to a magnetic sensor tip also cause faults. A damaged reluctor ring can mimic a bad sensor. There is no replacement interval; the sensor is replaced when testing shows it has failed.

## How much does crankshaft position sensor replacement cost?

|  | Typical cost |
| --- | --- |
| Parts | $30-$180 |
| Labor | $120-$320 (0.5-2.5 hours) |
| Total at an independent shop | $150-$500 |
| Total at a dealer | $250-$750 |
| Do it yourself (parts only) | $30-$180 |

## Cost by vehicle type

| Vehicle | Typical cost |
| --- | --- |
| Compact car | $150-$320 |
| Midsize sedan | $160-$380 |
| Small SUV/crossover | $170-$420 |
| Full-size truck/SUV | $180-$450 |
| Luxury/European | $250-$500 |

Ranges are for an independent shop. Expect the high end or more for European luxury makes and dealer service.

## What changes the price?

- **Sensor location.** Some crank sensors sit at the front of the engine near the crank pulley and take minutes to reach. Others mount behind the starter, under the intake or in the transmission bellhousing, which can take a few hours.
- **Part brand.** Original-equipment and matching-brand sensors cost more but give the correct signal and connector. Very cheap sensors can produce a weak or noisy signal and bring the code or the stalling back.
- **Relearn procedure.** Some engines need a scan tool to run a crankshaft position variation relearn after the sensor is replaced, so the computer can detect misfires accurately. Shops include this in the labor, and dealers may charge separately.
- **Wiring and reluctor damage.** If the fault is a chafed wire, a corroded connector or a damaged tone ring, the shop must repair that too. Wiring repair is usually cheap, but tone ring damage can require major engine work.

## Can you do it yourself?

Difficulty: **Easy to moderate**, about 30 minutes-2 hours. Parts cost $30-$180, so doing it yourself saves the labor ($120-$320).

## What happens during the job?

1. Read the codes and check live data for engine speed while cranking; a missing RPM reading points to the crank sensor circuit.
2. Test the sensor signal and wiring with a meter or scope, and check the connector for oil or corrosion.
3. Remove whatever blocks access, such as a splash shield, starter or heat shield, and unbolt the old sensor.
4. Clean the mounting bore, fit the new sensor with a fresh O-ring and torque it to specification.
5. Run any required crank relearn, clear codes and confirm the car starts and runs normally both cold and hot.

## What should a fair quote include?

- Reading codes and checking the sensor signal
- Inspecting the wiring and connector
- The new sensor and O-ring
- Any required crank relearn with a scan tool
- Clearing codes and a test drive

## How to pay less for crankshaft position sensor replacement

- Have the sensor and wiring tested before buying parts, since a corroded connector is a cheaper fix.
- Buy the original-equipment brand or a reputable matching brand rather than the cheapest sensor listed.
- Ask whether the shop includes the relearn in the quote so you are not charged twice.
- Do it yourself if your sensor is at the front of the engine and held by one bolt.
- Fix nearby oil leaks during the same visit so oil does not ruin the new sensor or connector.

## Signs you need it

- Engine cranks but will not start
- Engine stalls when hot and restarts after cooling
- Tachometer drops to zero or jumps while driving
- Misfires, stumbling or hesitation
- Check engine light with a crank sensor code

## Frequently asked questions

### How much does it cost to replace a crankshaft position sensor?

Most independent shops charge $150 to $500 in 2026, and dealers $250 to $750. The sensor runs about $30 to $180, so labor drives the total. Sensors at the front of the engine are cheap to replace, while ones behind the starter or near the transmission cost more.

### Can I drive with a bad crankshaft position sensor?

It is risky. A failing crank sensor can cut out without warning, stalling the engine in traffic, and on most engines the car will not restart until the signal returns. If the engine is stalling or the tachometer is dropping out, have it repaired before relying on the car.

### What are the symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor?

The most common signs are cranking without starting and stalling, often when the engine is hot. The tachometer may drop to zero or jump. Misfires, hesitation and a check engine light with a code such as P0335 are also common. Some sensors fail intermittently before failing completely.

### Why does my car stall when hot and restart when cool?

A failing crankshaft position sensor is a common cause. Heat makes cracked internal windings or electronics lose contact, the signal drops out and the engine stops. After cooling, the sensor works again. A failing ignition module or fuel pump can act similarly, so testing while the fault happens is the best proof.

### Can I replace a crankshaft position sensor myself?

Often, yes. Many crank sensors are held by one bolt and one connector and can be reached from under the front of the car. Use a matching-brand sensor, install it with a new O-ring and clear the codes. If it sits behind the starter or needs a relearn, a shop may be simpler.

### Do I need a relearn after replacing the crank sensor?

Some vehicles do. Certain makes require a crankshaft position variation relearn with a scan tool so the computer can detect misfires correctly, and a misfire-related code may return without it. Many others need no relearn. Check the service information for your engine or ask the shop.

### What is the difference between crank and cam sensors?

The crank sensor reports crankshaft speed and position, which the engine needs to fire the spark and injectors. The cam sensor tells which stroke each cylinder is on and how the camshaft is timed. On most engines a dead crank sensor stops the engine, while a dead cam sensor often allows limp running.

### Will a bad crank sensor turn on the check engine light?

Usually, yes. A sensor that has failed or loses signal typically sets a code such as P0335 or P0336 and turns on the check engine light. An intermittent fault may stall the car before a code sets, so a missing light does not rule out the sensor.

### How long does a crankshaft position sensor last?

There is no fixed life, and many last the life of the engine. Heat, oil leaks onto the sensor or connector, and chafed wiring cause most failures. Because the part is cheap and failure can strand you, some owners replace it at the first sign of hot-stalling.

### Can a bad crank sensor cause a no-start with no code?

Yes. If the sensor has no output at all, some engines will not store a code during cranking, and the only clue is an RPM reading of zero on a scan tool while cranking. A shop will confirm the sensor signal before replacing it, since fuel or ignition faults look similar.

## Sources

- [EPA: On-Board Diagnostics (OBD)](https://www.epa.gov/state-and-local-transportation/vehicle-emissions-board-diagnostics-obd)
- [Car Care Council: Car care guide](https://www.carcare.org/car-care-guide/)
- [AAA: Approved Auto Repair](https://www.aaa.com/autorepair/)

## Symptoms

- [Why does my car crank but not start?](https://diagxcar.com/symptoms/car-cranks-but-wont-start)
- [Why does my car stall while driving?](https://diagxcar.com/symptoms/car-stalls-while-driving)
- [Why is my car idling rough?](https://diagxcar.com/symptoms/rough-idle)
- [Why does my car jerk when I accelerate?](https://diagxcar.com/symptoms/car-jerks-when-accelerating)

## Related codes

- [P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit](https://diagxcar.com/codes/p0335)
- [P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance](https://diagxcar.com/codes/p0336)
- [P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent](https://diagxcar.com/codes/p0339)
- [P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)](https://diagxcar.com/codes/p0016)
- [P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected](https://diagxcar.com/codes/p0300)
- [P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit](https://diagxcar.com/codes/p0320)

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Source page: https://diagxcar.com/cost/crankshaft-position-sensor-replacement
Updated: 2026-11-03
General information, not a substitute for a qualified mechanic.